▲2014: Lokbatan Oil Field. From nowhere, a Soviet Volga screeched to a halt. A tall man unfolded himself from the car and demanded my documents. I was arrested, the reason, ‘this is a strategic object'.
Since the 19th century, Azerbaijan’s wealth has come from oil. Baku, its oil-pumping epicentre, curls around the Caspian Sea and has become a focal point for those following apparent dreams of prosperity, drawing over half the population, five out of nine million people, into the city.
Since the second oil boom of 2005, Azerbaijan’s ever-expanding capital has continued its rapid transformation.
2017: The Qaradagh Quarry is where much of the stone used in the renovation of Baku was mined.
2015: A man builds a wall. Large walls are a common sight in Baku, often serving no other purpose than to block out less ‘pleasant’ sights, such as the more dilapidated housing of the poor or areas under construction.
2014: Yasamal, a working-class district in north Baku. Many residents arrived from the countryside after independence, yet others are internally displaced persons from Nagorno-Karabakh living in disused schools and dormitories.
2016: East of Baku, a vast barren city suburb wends it way down to a sliver of land 19 kilometres long.
An area that was the first in the region to drill for oil and remains the sole domain of the state-run oil pumping company SOCAR.
The peninsula is also used as a departure point for oil workers to ferry to off-shore platforms.
As the sun breaks, the dawn light outlines the city’s newly newbuilt skyline of shiny skyscrapers, hotels, and shopping malls. Traces of old Soviet city planning are dwarfed against mushrooming luxury apartments, commercial centres and renovated cultural sites – a playground for the Bakuvian elite and foreign oil workers alike. It’s impressive and has all the trappings of any modern metropolis.
2016: A couple sits in an old Lada while Port Baku, a luxury shopping area is visible behind them; directly situated next to White City, an upmarket housing development. Its prices remain unattainable to most Bakuvians.
2015: Baku Olympic Stadium in Baku’s Koroglu district stand behind snaking oil pipelines.
Koroglu has undergone extensive remodelling which began in earnest in 2014 in preparation for the European Games held in the summer of 2015. Seen by critics as a costly public relations move to promote Azerbaijan.
The showpiece stadium, an immense, white circular structure which at night flashes the colours of the Azerbaijani flag has, for some, become a symbol of misspent public funds.
Remodelled public spaces offer the appearance of prosperous globalisation. But despite the glitz, the country is deeply unequal and behind the billboards and sandstone walls many struggle to get by.